Friday, December 12, 2008

I won't go down without a fight! And Konglish Christmas carols.

These kids are impossible. This entry, perhaps, will be far more venting than most blogs; but, I figure if I couldn't vent to a computer screen with familiar faces on it, who would I vent to? Okay, preface: I work at an all boys middle school and the boys here are out of control. A cultural insight of Korea: Parents favor their young sons (and conversely, not their daughters) and will hardly ever refuse them of things they want. Another important note: After school, parents send their kids to "hagwons" to learn English. "Hagwons" are basically private English schools (that are incidentally filled with dodgy characters and corrupt behavior). (A buddy of mine worked at a Hagwon as an English teacher and they set him up with a substandard apartment, made him work double shifts without overtime, split his schedule [a class at 7am and then one at 9pm] and then refused to pay him at the end of the month. Yes, this may sound hyperbolic, but foreigners have little to no rights here and if you aren't in a government job where there are bureaucratic repercussions for principals who don't pay their employees, you're really taking your chances.) Anyway, so the kids go to hagwons at night, plus they're never told "no" from the time they are born--so English class during the day is an ostensible waste of time. They talk, fight, and sleep in class and because they don't have any respect for foreign teachers and I don't issue grades, I really have no form of recourse....EXCEPT corporal punishment. Yesterday, a fellow teacher seriously quoted to me, "Spare the rod, spoil the child." This was in the middle of my Teachers' Course--where all of the English teachers sit in around and speak in English about what issue ails them--and my colleague spat out that proverb. And oddly enough, I wasn't shocked by it. I just sort of overlooked the comment and changed the subject. After living here for a week, it seemed intuitive to me that that was one of their fundamental mores. This is a land of standardized tests to the extreme, work hard/play hard, and bipolar atmosphere, it makes sense that an idea like individual rights (the right not to be beaten) would be completely moot.

Despite my bickering, I did have somewhat of a good time this week. My first day of teaching was exhilarating cake. The students listened and I was like a rockstar to them. Another interesting thing about the small towns in Korea--well, actually two things--(a) they rarely see westerners and they aren't nearly as exposed to western culture as you might think in today's social climate; and (b) westerners, consequently, are like gods to them. I can't pass anyone on the street without their awestricken head turning. Some of them even cry out, "USA" or "Canada". On the latter, I quickly correct them and say "USA". Anyway, I got to go to the beach yesterday which was exhilarating. It reminded me a lot of Pacific Beach back home and it was really comforting. Since I've always lived on the coast, it's nice to know that I'm not landlocked in podunk nowhere on the other side of the world. Another thing I discovered about Korea: no matter how small the town, there is always a dense urban center. At some point, I'll take pictures for you but you could walk to miles of rice fields and then all of the sudden you'll be trampled by a slough of chain retail shops and high rise restaurants. I was convinced that I was pretty isolated from most life outside of my school because I live on the outskirts of town. But, I just went for a twenty minute walk yesterday and hit the heart of downtown. Fifteen to twenty story buildings everywhere and so many shops. Luckily, though, since I can't read the language, I'm never tempted to buy anything on my limited salary. Yeah, so back to the beach- it's about 7 miles from my house and without sidewalks on the side of the road, it's too far to walk, but I'll find a way to get there. Apparently, a taxi is only about 10,000 won, so like 7 dollars. That could make for a good day trip. Probably even better once it gets warmer.

Now for something completely different: I love me some Konglish Christmas carols. At first glance, you might think the Christmas carols you know and love sung in high pitched voices and broken English might get annoying, but no. I never cease to adore them. They're played in the grocery store and everywhere else practically. But not all of them are merely broken English; in fact, most of them have Konglish choruses and Korean verses. Lord knows what those ambiguously gendered Konglish kids are saying. But they sure are happy about it.

My first week is over and it couldn't have come at a better time. I am spent. I'm going to go cruise the local bar scene and see what it has to offer. Goodnight.

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